Travelers heading north along the California coast from Los Angeles might find a distinct culinary tradition in the Santa Maria Valley. This region is home to a specific style of barbecue that differs significantly from other American variations. Diners at established restaurants such as Shaw’s Famous Steakhouse in Santa Maria or the Hitching Post in Casmalia can experience this local specialty firsthand.
A standard plate of this regional barbecue typically includes red oak grilled top sirloin or tri-tip. It is served alongside pinquito beans, a miniature variety of pink bean cultivated exclusively in the Santa Maria Valley. The meal is completed with macaroni and cheese, a green salad, toasted French bread, and salsa. Notably, the dish is prepared without barbecue sauce, relying instead on a dry rub for flavor.
The style is so specific to the area that the Santa Maria Valley Chamber of Commerce has trademarked the term Santa Maria Barbecue. This legal measure helps protect the tradition from nearby imitators and preserves the unique identity of the local cuisine.
The defining characteristic of this cooking method is the specialized pit used. The grate is equipped with a crank or pulley system that allows the cook to raise or lower the meat. By adjusting the distance from the red oak coals, the cook controls the heat, moving the meat closer to sear or higher to cook through slowly. The pit does not have a lid. Local pitmaster Nicholas Priedite describes the process as something between grilling and smoking.
The origins of this technique date back to the 1830s and 1840s, when California was part of Mexico. The government granted large cattle ranches to settlers and distributed additional land after breaking up the missions in 1833. Ranchers primarily raised cattle for hides and tallow, which made beef plentiful. According to R.H. Tesene’s book Santa Maria Style Barbecue, cooks at roundups and fiestas would dig pits filled with local red oak. This wood grows abundantly in the coastal climate and produces a mellow smoke. Once the fire reduced to hot coals, beef was strung on willow branches and hung to cook.
By the 1920s, locals had adopted the method as their own. Beef strung on skewers over red oak coals became a common sight at community gatherings. In 1920, Ed Craig, a founder of the Santa Maria Club, a social organization for local businessmen, built a large pit to serve groups. By 1931, the club was hosting a monthly stag barbecue where plates were sold for $1.25 plus tax.
The preferred cut of meat has evolved over time. Prime rib was originally the choice, followed by thick top sirloin that suited skewers and rods. According to Lompoc butcher Bruce Nix, the style shifted toward tri-tip in the late 1960s. This change occurred as cooks moved to metal screens, allowing a smaller and cheaper cut to become popular.
A new generation of pitmasters is now carrying the technique forward. At the Santa Maria BBQ Festival in September, visitors could sample plates from various local cooks, each with their own approach. Angel Ibarra of Santa Maria Grill Masters leads a group of friends who have competed in local contests for two decades. He uses a family dry rub recipe of garlic, pepper, onion, and salt, letting the fire provide the rest of the flavor.
Jesse Carlon of Oakie Smokie BBQ in Santa Maria emphasizes maintaining consistent temperature to ensure tender meat. He operates a microenterprise home kitchen operation, known as an MEHKO, where he serves thinly sliced tri-tip in a sandwich style similar to a Philadelphia cheesesteak. Nicholas Priedite runs his business from a truck in Los Alamos, offering brisket, pork shoulder, ribs, and pinquito beans. For Priedite, the work is about preserving local heritage. He stated, “I feel like I can help carry the culture a little bit.”
