KYN has opened at 1807 Chestnut St. in Philadelphia’s Rittenhouse neighborhood, adding to a wave of matcha businesses that have arrived in recent months. Alongside matcha, founder and CEO Young Nam Kwon is introducing drinks that have become viral favorites in his native South Korea, including mugwort lattes and einspänner lattes.
Kwon, 41, is also the founder of Mari Mari, the fast-casual business with locations in H Mart food courts in North Philadelphia and Orlando, Fla., and a flagship on 13th Street. Its menu includes tofu skins called inari filled with sushi rice and assorted toppings, along with Korean-Japanese sushi rolls prepared to order. His new venture’s name is pronounced like keen, a word he liked for its association with a sharp mind. KYN also uses his initials.
The move into beverages follows a career that initially pointed toward audio production, which Kwon studied at university. He tried to enter that field but felt the timing was wrong, recalling that K-pop had a much smaller profile 20 years ago. He subsequently worked in high-end restaurants in Gangnam, Seoul’s wealthiest district, before moving to New York City at his aunt’s urging and continuing in sushi restaurants.
New York’s cafe culture helped inspire his interest in a different kind of business. Kwon enjoyed the many places where he could spend hours over coffee, although he is reluctant to describe KYN as a cafe. He views matcha preparation as closer to culinary work than the specialized techniques of a barista. Employees whisk every cup by hand.
KYN gets its matcha from Uji in Japan’s Kyoto Prefecture, with the small, relatively new business subject to the uncertainties of importing the ingredient. Its mugwort also comes from Uji, even though the flowering plant is much more popular in South Korea. The mugwort gives its lattes an earthy, herbal flavor.
For its signature beverages, the shop blends matcha and hojicha powders into whipped cream made in-house. That cream can also top einspänners, a traditional Viennese coffee served in a glass beneath a layer of cold whipped cream.
The generous use of matcha makes production expensive, Kwon said. Each matcha drink uses 4.5 grams of powder before more is added through the cream topping. He said he is prepared to accept losses for now to maintain quality.
The quiet-looking, plywood-paneled shop has remained packed since opening. Kwon hopes to expand with another KYN in Fishtown, which he believes would suit the neighborhood. The Chestnut Street location operates daily from 8:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.
